Saturday, March 10, 2012

Riverside Quarry - 02/18/2012

After the long drive, and the somewhat hard hike (due to the stroller) the day before at Devil's Punchbowl, we decided to head to the Quarry since it is so close and has such an easy approach. Amy wanted to do some leading, so we were planning on heading over to the Schoolhouse Rock section of the quarry, but when we got there we noticed that there was a huge group of at least 20 people on that side, so we decided to head over to Slab city.

Since Amy wanted to lead we started out on a 5.8 called Feetal Rearrangement. This route is really a pretty crappy route that is constantly traversing to the left, but it is the easiest offering at Slab City, so we started there. Amy lead the route and got the redpoint, then we pulled the rope and I lead it as well.





After Feetal Rearrangement I wanted to try something new, and there was a really cool looking crack just to the right of us so I decided to give it a go. We didn't have the book with us so I had no idea what the route was, but it didn't look too bad so I started up it. The crux was obviously between the third and fourth bolts where the crack is overhanging, but it looked like it was perfect finger sized from the ground so I didn't think it would be too much of a problem. The route was pretty easy up until the third bolt, but that crack that had looked so good from the ground ended up being super shallow and flaring. It was obvious that the route was an old Aid route because all of the hand holds were made by sawed off angles which is why they were so shallow and flaring. I ended up working the moves between the third and fourth bolts, but I just didn't have the strength to clip the fourth bolt, so I would climb up to the bolt, try to figure out a way to clip it, and fall off. I did this several times until I was sure that I wouldn't be able to do the route that day and I gave up (after getting home and checking the guidebook, it turns out the route was a 5.11d called Vertical Vee, I'll have to try it again some other time).


Starting the crux sequence


A little Higher


The high point


And Fall off (now scroll up to the top picture and back down again a bunch more times to see the whole sequence)

Next we decided to climb a fun 5.10b called Goody Two Shoes which is just to the left of the first route we did. This route is really quite fun, and is also very easy for the most part since the 10b rating comes from a single move getting established on a slab just above the steepest section of the route. I lead the route cleanly, then Amy TR'd it and we moved onto another route.








For our next climb we decided to do a 5.10a called Mantle Marathon. This is a route that Amy generally has a hard time with because it consists of basically manteling onto a ledge about 10 times, and she isn't all that good at manteling. I ran up the route, then Amy went up it on TR, and she didn't have any problems at all. It looked like she could have lead it easily, so I suggested she try, but she refused and said maybe next time.








Finally we decided that Danny needed a chance to climb something, but Mantle Marathon is a little bit too dificult for him, so I decided to run up Goody Too Shoes again since the first part of it is so easy. I set up a TR for him and he had a good time playing around on the rock, then we decided that it was time to get home for the kids naps, so we headed out.


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