Wednesday, November 21, 2012

Riverside Quarry, 11/10/2012

On Saturday the 10th of November I wanted to head up to Frustration Creek to continue working on my new routes, but unfortunately, the weather wasn't looking great up there so we decided that we'd have to make a trip to the Quarry.  Now it's been a while since we went to the Quarry (since I've been spending all of my climbing time up at Frustration Creek), but it ended up being the perfect choice because it was the perfect temperature in the sun.

Of course we headed to Slab City since it works so well with the kids, and decided to start out with Goody Two Shoes - 5.10b.  I ran up the route (getting the redpoint easily) and hung the draws so that Amy could give it a go.  She then did a good job leading the route, but she did fall off a couple of times before sticking the crux move.

After Amy finished up, we decided to move one route to the left and give Bottom Feeder (5.11b) a go.  I cruised the route with no problems at all, in fact, I did the crux move completely statically, I chalked up off of a hold that I had torn a pully on a couple of years ago, and the crux really felt like nothing to me.  The hardest time I had on the route was at the upper 5.10a crux pulling over onto the slab, and that was just because the wind kicked up and was making me feel a bit insecure on the delicate slab move.  It felt pretty good cruising an .11b as easily as I did.

At this point Danny was really wanting to do some climbing, so we headed over to the big boulder in front of Shattered Dreams and let him top-rope it a couple of times before we decided to give Shattered Dreams (5.10c) a go.  I lead the route easily, and set up a TR so that Amy could try working through the crux again.  Amy actually did really good through the lower section and made it further than she ever has before without resting, but the pump finally caught up with her and she had to take.  After that she was pretty tired, but she did do pretty well through the crux, and was really close to pulling those moves off as well.

After Shattered Dreams, Amy was ready to head home, but I wanted to try something new, so I decided to give Hang Thang (5.11b) a go.  Hang Thang starts out by pulling over a big roof before joining up with Cling Thing at it's 5th bolt. Hang Thang went well allthough I certainly didn't get the onsight.  It took me a few tries to figure out the crux move which involves a really big reach up to a cool lieback flake.  I kept trying to do these smaller moves because the move just looked too big, but when I decided to just go for the big move, I found out that it wasn't all that dificult.  Once past the crux the route eases up considerably, and I had no problems finishing it up.

After that we packed up and headed home since as always, the kids needed a nap.

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