Sunday, September 16, 2012

Riverside Quarry, 06/16/2012

On Saturday the 16th of June, I still wanted to get some more climbing in for the week so we headed to Riverside Quarry. Now Amy wasn't feeling like doing too much climbing since we had climbed so much that week, but I wanted to get at least one route in.  We headed to Slab City as usual since it is such a good place for the kidos to hang out, and I decided that I wanted to try a route that is to the right of Cling Thing. 

The route isn't listed in the old guidebook that we have, so I decided to just give it a go.  The route started out with some fun moves through a bulge, then it goes technical as you get over the bulge.  I had to hang once here because I headed right and got offroute when I couldn't see the third bolt and the holds looked to head that direction.  Once I figured out where the route went I continued climbing as the route passed a couple of bolts in a super easy slabby section before coming to the crux roof. Now the crux turned out to be tons of fun.  it followed a finger crack through a decent sized roof, then pulled the roof on some pretty good jugs with pretty much nothing for feet.  It took me a couple of tries to figure out the sequence, and I'm sure all of the climbing that I had done throughout the week didn't help me out.  Once you pull the roof the route is pretty much over as you just finish up a big juggy detached flake that is bolted onto the main wall so that it won't fall off and kill your belayer.  I'd say that the route felt like about 5.11b, but I was pretty tired from the week of climbing, so I could be off on that rating by a bit.  I think the route is called "Hoochie Mama", but I'll need to get the new guidebook to be sure.

After I finished the route, Amy tried it on TR, but she was tired and only made it to the second bolt before coming down.  After that we decided that we were both too tired to continue climbing for the day, so we headed back home for some much needed R&R.

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