Tuesday, September 25, 2012

Big Rock, 07/06/2012

I had Friay the 6th of July off, and we wanted to go climbing, but the kids also wanted to go swimming, so we decided to head to Big Rock so that we could do some climbing in the morning before it got hot, then go swiming in the afternoon at Lake Perris.  We ended up getting a decently early start (considering the fact that we have 2 kids) and made it to Big Rock while it was still pretty cool outside. 

The first time we went to Big Rock I had TR'd a 5.10a/b called Mind Bender, but I had never lead it, so we decided that since it was cool outside we'd try leading it.  I ended up getting the redpoint without any problems and have to say that it is a pretty fun route.  Amy went up the route on TR and did have to hang a coupld of times through the crux, but eventually made it to the top of the route.

Amy just past the crux of "Mind Bender" - 5.10a/b

Amy a bit higher

We had never climbed any of the routes that are right of the anchors on Mind Bender, so we decided to give one of them a go.  The route we chose was a 5.6 called "Puppy Dog".  This was a pretty fun route that follows a ton of good chicken heads up the easy slab.  I did think the route was a bit runout though (even by Big Rock standards) since it only had 3 bolts in the 100ft pitch.  The climb was easy enough that it didn't really matter, but it's certainly not a climb I'd recommend to new leaders.  I got the onsight, and Amy TR'd it cleanly.

Me Leading "Puppy Dog"- 5.6

Just past the third bolt and looking for the next one.

Ariving at the anchors (x's show the locations of the three bolts and anchors on the 100' route)

The last time we came to Big Rock with Bennett and Gwyenn Bennett and I did a 5.7 crack on the upper half of Big Rock called Right Flake.  Bennett hasn't done much multipitch climbing, so I figured it would be a good way for him to do some.  After Amy saw us do it she wanted to try Right Flake as well, but we didn't have time that day, so we decided to do it the next time we came (which was now).  Now since Amy and I were alone with the kids at Big Rock we decided that we probably shouldn't do a 2 pitch route and leave the kids on the ground by themselves, so I lead a 5.9 called "Variation to Boogaloo" (onsight), then just continued up Right Flake linking the two routes into one long (almost a full 200') pitch.  I trailed a second rope up with me, so I was able to rap off, then belay Amy up the combined route on a super long TR.  Amy did great on the route and really enjoyed Right Flake.

Variation to Boogaloo - 5.9


Starting up "Right Flake" - 5.7

End of "Right Flake"

Amy on "Variation to Boogaloo"

Amy Starting up "Right Flake"


By this time it was getting hot outside, so we packed up our gear, drove to the other side of the lake, and went swimming for the afternoon.

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